Peels
5 min readChoosing a Chemical Peel by Fitzpatrick Type
Educational reading for licensed practitioners — not clinical or injection guidance.
Chemical peels remain one of the most cost-effective in-clinic tools for texture, tone and early ageing. The catch is that the wrong acid on the wrong skin can trade a short-lived glow for months of pigmentation. Choosing well comes down to two questions: what is the primary concern, and how does this particular skin behave when it is injured.
Start with the Fitzpatrick scale
The Fitzpatrick classification (I to VI) describes how skin responds to UV and, by extension, how readily it produces melanin in response to inflammation. Types I to III burn easily and pigment less; types IV to VI tan readily and carry a higher baseline risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) after any controlled injury.
That single fact should shape depth more than any marketing claim. For Fitzpatrick IV to VI, the safest default is a superficial, well-buffered acid used in a series, with meticulous priming and photoprotection. Deeper, medium-depth work is possible in experienced hands, but the margin for error is smaller and the consequences of getting it wrong last longer.
Match the acid to the concern
Mandelic acid — the large-molecule all-rounder
Mandelic acid has a comparatively large molecular size, so it penetrates slowly and evenly. That translates into lower irritation and a gentler inflammatory response, which is exactly what you want for a first peel, for sensitive skin, and for melasma-prone or darker skin. It is a sensible entry point when you are unsure how a patient will react. Options such as Mandelic Acid Peel FILORGA Light and the higher-strength Hyalax Mandelic Peel 40% let you titrate intensity across a course.
Salicylic acid (BHA) — oily, acne-prone, congested skin
Salicylic acid is lipophilic, so it moves into the sebaceous follicle rather than sitting only on the surface. That makes it the logical choice for active comedonal and inflammatory acne, blackheads and oiliness, and it carries useful anti-inflammatory properties that keep PIH risk relatively low. A beta-hydroxy formulation such as Dermastir BHA Peptide 20% fits this profile.
Glycolic acid (AHA) — texture, dullness and fine lines
Glycolic is the smallest AHA, so for a given concentration it penetrates deeper and works faster on rough texture, dullness and superficial lines. That efficiency is also its risk: it is more irritating and less forgiving on reactive or highly pigmented skin, so concentration, contact time and neutralisation all matter. Consider Glycolic Acid Peel FILORGA Time or the professional-strength NeoStrata Glycolic Peel, and step up strength only once tolerance is established.
TCA — deeper resurfacing for experienced hands
Trichloroacetic acid reaches medium depth and delivers more dramatic resurfacing, but it also carries the highest scarring and PIH risk, particularly above Fitzpatrick III. One way to make a TCA active more approachable is a buffered formulation: PRX-T33 pairs TCA with hydrogen peroxide and kojic acid in a system designed to stimulate without frosting or significant downtime. It is not a substitute for a classic medium-depth peel, but it lets you introduce a TCA active with a gentler safety profile.
Skin-of-colour safety
For Fitzpatrick IV to VI, treat the following as non-negotiable rather than optional:
- Prime for two to four weeks with a tolerated retinoid and a pigment inhibitor to calm melanocytes before you peel.
- Patch test and start at the lowest effective strength, extending the series rather than the depth.
- Favour mandelic and salicylic over aggressive glycolic or unbuffered TCA.
- Do not stack procedures (peel plus energy device plus aggressive extraction) in one visit.
- Enforce daily broad-spectrum SPF, ideally tinted with iron oxides, for the whole course.
- Treat any PIH promptly with a pigment-control protocol rather than waiting to see if it fades.
Build a course, not a one-off
Superficial peels are designed to work cumulatively. A series spaced every two to four weeks generally outperforms a single strong treatment and keeps the inflammatory load — and therefore the pigment risk — low. Reassess after each session: skin that tolerates a peel comfortably can progress; skin that stays pink or flakes heavily needs longer intervals or a gentler acid.
The Takeaway
Depth follows the patient, not the wish list. Choose the acid by concern — mandelic for a cautious start and darker skin, salicylic for oil and acne, glycolic for texture and dullness, TCA only with experience and priming — and let the Fitzpatrick type set your ceiling on intensity. Priming and photoprotection do more to protect results in higher phototypes than any single product choice.
Explore the full chemical peels range to build a graded protocol for your clinic.